Project $500 Arcade Station
Moderator: enderzero
I can tell massive quantities of work were accomplished.
Well, I suppose a lot of internal work could have been done. How did the alluminum tapping operation go? Did you guys use measurements, or did you use a motherboard as a template for the holes? This is the sort of thing where Sethlink comes in handy. He'd just have the dimensional specs handy for whatever reason, and give all the measurements to the center of all the holes. And then, once drilled and tapped, it would be sent off to be brushed and annodized blue for the finishing touch. Hey that would be cool. An arcade cabinet built out of all brushed and annodized 3/8" thick alluminum. We'd call it the SwankBox.
Well, I suppose a lot of internal work could have been done. How did the alluminum tapping operation go? Did you guys use measurements, or did you use a motherboard as a template for the holes? This is the sort of thing where Sethlink comes in handy. He'd just have the dimensional specs handy for whatever reason, and give all the measurements to the center of all the holes. And then, once drilled and tapped, it would be sent off to be brushed and annodized blue for the finishing touch. Hey that would be cool. An arcade cabinet built out of all brushed and annodized 3/8" thick alluminum. We'd call it the SwankBox.
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"they" - pfffft. I thought that little skiing back plane was your baby? Had we known that we had a mini-atx metal plane we would have been goin with that from the beginning. We thought it was AT, but it was stolen... err atx.
We also built the computer and installed the OS and set up MAME.
Also designed the control board layout and built the box.
We got a lot done but had to resort to playing our NES board games on the xbox emu.
We also built the computer and installed the OS and set up MAME.
Also designed the control board layout and built the box.
We got a lot done but had to resort to playing our NES board games on the xbox emu.
Great, you had to get my chicken leg in there didn't you.
I wanna give a great thank you to admiral mcnevin and administrator ender for completely trashing my place and breaking my desktop computer this weekend. Oh and thanks for the help on the cabinet too. And thanks to J3RK for speedy tapping bit info. How in gods name does anyone know that kind of info off the top of their head?
I wanna give a great thank you to admiral mcnevin and administrator ender for completely trashing my place and breaking my desktop computer this weekend. Oh and thanks for the help on the cabinet too. And thanks to J3RK for speedy tapping bit info. How in gods name does anyone know that kind of info off the top of their head?
Well if you can't play a game without a controller, you don't deserve to play with Project $5000 Arcade Station in the first place. The beer refs are associated with the keg-o-rator and tap I'm installing in the bottom portion of the cabinet (refer to first post in this discussion, I changed it).
Thanks for the frame idea kevlar, it worked out fabulous and it seems to be the best way to mount the glass and bezel without drilling and screwing and cracking the material.
Thanks for the frame idea kevlar, it worked out fabulous and it seems to be the best way to mount the glass and bezel without drilling and screwing and cracking the material.
Looking nice! These things always do end up going up in price. Both Joymasters cost about150-200% more than I originally intended. What's the button layout like? The way I did the ones on the Joymaster Mk II is have the first four (two from top and bottom row,) be in a plus formation, so that they can be used as secondary directional control for games like Total Carnage, Smash TV, Robotron, etc. (when multiple players want to play them.) When a single player plays, two joysticks can be used instead. Actually though, since you have four players worth of sticks, you may not need to do that.
When I was going with the 2 player layout, I was considering adding two additional joysticks on the left and right side of the buttons for games such as the ones you mentioned. Proper controls for Smash TV are a necessity for any arcade project. Now that I'm going with the four player layout, I'll actually have a total of 6 joysticks (4 8-way, 2 4-way). BIG MONEY! BIG PRIZES! I LOVE THIS GAME!
Yes! Xybot will be supported. Re-link that pic, goemon.
For those who were so sure it couldn't be done, *COUGH ENDER*, I've discovered a simple device which allows me to power up all the components of the S.S. Ryland's Moustache with the flip of a single switch/button. All give praise to Bits Limted Smartstrip
http://www.bitsltd.net/SmartStrip/buy.htm
just fyi...and stuff
For those who were so sure it couldn't be done, *COUGH ENDER*, I've discovered a simple device which allows me to power up all the components of the S.S. Ryland's Moustache with the flip of a single switch/button. All give praise to Bits Limted Smartstrip
http://www.bitsltd.net/SmartStrip/buy.htm
just fyi...and stuff
$1329.95 is still pretty reasonable for the device in question. I'm surprised it wasn't a bit more actually. So are you using the PC's power as the main power that the strip is going to base it's state on? The other thing you could do is go "old-school" get some 10 guage solid core electrical wire, and put a giant toggle switch on the front, going straight into the power strip. A nice, big, huge, 2 inch diameter power button would be cool too. Right in the front of the cabinet (lower section.) The big shiny candy-like button. You could even label it the "History Eraser Button."
heh, you mean something like this...
I was actually thinking about doing that, but the problem with that button will be everyone feeling the need to slam it as hard as they can every time they wanna power up the machine, eventually leading to broken wrists and lawsuits. Perhaps I should go with a button that's a bit more fashionable for the cabinet...like this one
I was actually thinking about doing that, but the problem with that button will be everyone feeling the need to slam it as hard as they can every time they wanna power up the machine, eventually leading to broken wrists and lawsuits. Perhaps I should go with a button that's a bit more fashionable for the cabinet...like this one
I found this picture and remembered that the arcade version Xybots stick was actual a weird combo that you could turn like a key to change the direction that your Xybot was facing (if that makes sense). Which was cool.
You can get the same effect with two joysicks per player (in more of a SmashTV/Robotron style).
(The player on the left is stuck with the name, "Major Rock Hardy" while the right player is branded with "Captain Ace Gunn"; when these characters weren't fighting in otherworldly labyrinths, they were filming gay porn.)
You can get the same effect with two joysicks per player (in more of a SmashTV/Robotron style).
(The player on the left is stuck with the name, "Major Rock Hardy" while the right player is branded with "Captain Ace Gunn"; when these characters weren't fighting in otherworldly labyrinths, they were filming gay porn.)
That would be the cool master button. Of course it wouldn't handle the voltage of my "straight to the power strip" approach. It would have to go through a relay or something. That would be really cool actually, because when you hit the button you'd hear a loud and satisfying click from the relay. (You know, to really let you know that their are juices a-flowing.)
You wouldn't need one if you were using the power strip that Sleeeph is thinking of using. Because then you can just control it all via the PC's power state. If you were going to wire a switch like that nice low voltage button in the picture above straight to the power-strip where its switch used to be, you'd definitely want a relay, so as to avoid unwanted fire damage. Either that, or use a big toggle switch rated for that kind of voltage. I like the relay idea better though in that instance, because of the clickies. I think the coolest option of all is to get one of those old lever switches like they use on cartoons for mad-scientists. You'd have to make sure not to touch anything but the handle though. [TEE HEE HEE]